I get a lot of emails per month and some about the same questions.
To make my life a little less complicated and not having to repeat myself or by using the copy & paste method
I find this page one of the best pages attributes that I have come up with.
Many of your questions can be found here, others can be on found on the Policies page and clicking each subject that you are interested in.
Do you have puppies available?
Puppies are not always available.
Usually, the females will come in heat together and thus you find our litters are usually born around the same time.
The best way to find out if we have puppies available is to click on the puppy’s available page.
I try to update that page as often as possible.
Are your dogs AKC Registered?
Yes, all my dogs are AKC registered. Some are AKC Champions.
Can you take more photos?
The public does not understand what is involved in taking photos and why we take photos when we do.
I believe that if you are going to take photos the puppies should be well groomed and clean.
I will not just pick up a puppy and start clicking the camera. That is NOT going to happen.
The photos I take of my puppies/dogs represents me and I do not want less than what I would expect myself.
I try to update puppy photos every 2 to 3 weeks as it is.
Usually, after the puppies have their eyes open is when I like to start.
I also do not like taking photos when the puppies are older as stated below it takes a lot of time to do them.
At this point I usually already have side shots of the body and head shots, puppies really do not change that much.
When I take photos of puppies I take photos usually of the WHOLE litter not just one puppy!
It would be pure stupidity if I did only one puppy.
The first step in my process of taking photos is grooming.
It is not fun to be all hairy and only groom one puppy. With this said all of the litter gets groomed.
Have you ever tried holding a puppy that will not sit still? It is a nightmare at times.
You can’t rush this process because they remember the clippers this step is time consuming.
You do not want the puppy to be scared of clippers because cockers have a life of being clipped.
It is NOT just a five minute type of thing. Younger puppies under 8 weeks might take 20 minutes a puppy.
Older one it takes almost 45 minutes to an hour.
It is not just clipper work, but scissor work as well. Cutting toe nails and cleaning ears.
When I groom I do it all, not just half ass.
After I am done grooming I have to change my own clothing and start laundry.
You do not want to groom a puppy and not give them a bath as it will give them a burn.
You can’t groom one day and the next day give them a bath.
Have you gone and got your hair cut and when you are done you are itchy. Same thing in dogs!
Giving them a bath is next.
I have different soaps for different puppies including puppy shampoo.
Sometimes it seems like they gave me a bath instead of the other way around.
Washing per puppy is 30 minutes. That does not included dry time. Again older puppies take longer!
When you have the whole litter of puppies you need to have extra hands with means family help!
Next is poop duty. As soon as you set the puppy down I don’t know what it is but the puppies poop.
Walking around with paper towels and trying to place it under their butts so they don’t walk in it or get them nasty.
Now by that this time I am so tired.
We have to get photos. It is all about the lighting. Is it sun shine, windy, or raining?
You can just take a puppy outside and expect a good picture. That is not going to happen.
Many people can take pictures of things but to capture the puppy and in the correct light is HARD!
Why do you think I have some great photos? Because it takes a lot of time and you really need to have an eye for it.
I usually take about 20 + photos per puppy with maybe 2 or 3 turning out.
I have to down load the photos to the computer. Waiting for this to happen seems like forever.
Then I need to crop them to size.
I then go into my website program and put the entire puppy photos up for the whole litter.
Doing this is an all-day task.
Taking photos of older puppies which I call my teenagers is very time consuming.
Even after taking a picture a month earlier there is always someone wanting another picture of the puppy.
After the puppy reaches about six months of age taking a photo a month later is not going to show you any more change.
Do you breed sables, roans and merles?
Yes, I do breed these coat types.
My color choice has always been with open marked parti colors such as black/white, black/white/tan and red/white.
I do have solids but not very often.
If I have solid colors I usually have buff and possibly a black/tan.
I do not breed for black or brown but occasionally might have a puppy every once in a while.
We do have mismark parti colors every now and again.
That is because we breed solid to parti.
I was told that those that think out of the box have the most success – quote by another well-known show breeder.
Mismarks are usually the first ones that are placed because many people like the feet with white socks!
I do breed sables both parti’s and solids.
Sables are not currently allowed in the confirmation ring and
when it does become allowed I will probably breed them more often.
I tend to breed more sable/white than sable solid.
Can Ch.Keystone’s Haulin’ Ash (Ashton) became a Champion in 2011 and finished under his new owner
Can. Ch. Keystone’s Haulin’ Ash was sold to his new owner after my father as he was owned by me, but lived with my dad.
I do own Ashton’s son Bo who is a chocolate sable solid and he carries both solid and parti.
We have limited roan puppies available as that is not my coat pattern of choice,
I might have one litter a year of roans maximum.
I suggest if you want a roan, to get put on the list and put a deposit down on the color and sex you are wanting.
My roans are being shipped over to places like France and other countries so they do tend to sell fast.
I also have been known to breed merles and I am very well educated about this coat type.
I do try to breed for open marked merles with blue eyes and tan points.
I do not usually breed for the solid merles only parti merles.
If you go back to the original page that got you here you can click on the Merles page to read more about them.
I one a few merle kids both 3rd and 4th generations from where I started.
I might have 1 litter a year of merles and sometimes I don’t have any for 2 or more years.
I believe I have quality merles for the most part, most are bred to champions or go back to champion pedigree’s.
I have been informed by many breeders that they can point out my merles above others.
I definitely think I have improved on the merles that I have produced that are out there.
Some merles lines have come a long way.
Many breeders have come to me to acquire about merles so they too can produce nice merles.
It is not about the money as my merles are no higher priced than the other cocker puppies are available.
The big myth is that merle puppies sell for much higher price than other puppies that is not true.
I have sold merle puppies for much less at times.
They sell no higher usually than some show prospects or pet price puppies.
I do try to produce merle puppies when I have a litter that is as close to standard as possible and out of Champions.
Many show people have merles at their homes even the 2008 Breeder of the Year had a couple merles and breed but do not tell friends about them and hide behind the
fact they have them so they can look better to their peers and down grade those of us who have them.
Having merles is a right and down grading people because we have them is wrong.
If you do not like merles please keep your comments to yourself and do not email me about them.
Spay and Neuter?
I don’t require that you spay or neuter but do provide a brochure on spay and neutering on my purchase agreement.
I do not believe that a breeder, vet, county, state or anyone else has the right to make you spay or neuter your pet or put it in any contract.
Although, I believe this way-many others are all about Spay and Neuter.
I believe that is your choice to spay and neuter but that does not mean that I recommend breeding or believe dogs should be bred
or can produce, please see our purchase agreement and puppies information pages.
There is no question in some cases that spaying or neutering your pets can be good and also bad, there are pros and cons to this
and I recommend talking to your vet about this and on what the appropriate age for this surgery.
Some say neutering reduces territorial markings and excessive aggression.
Some say after spaying and neutering that they turn their attention and affection towards their owners.
There are many local, county and state laws stating that you must spay and neuter your pet.
Each year more laws go in place by government.
Many communities have low-cost spay and neuter programs that make surgery affordable.
Do you have a waiting list to have one of your puppies?
On some litters there are waiting lists a mile long and others not so many.
Depending on the color and sex of the puppy you are looking for will determine where on the list you will be placed. If you would like to be put on a waiting list all you have to do is email me.
Describe what color you are looking for and what sex. Please also tell me a little about you and your life style as well as phone number with the best time to call you.
Cockers have been bred for years to have abundance of coat because having coat has become socially correct.
Back in the 1960-70-s the coat use to not look this way.
Many cockers had a slick coats with little hair.
Because of this there is a possibility of having a puppy with a slick coat no matter what the parents
look like because of genetics behind the puppy that goes back generations.
There are many coat types in cockers.
Also it is known like a baby, puppies have puppy hair.
It is much different than adult hair.
Puppies tend to have a slick look and lose their hair
and then the new adult hair grows in.
Just like in puppy teeth, they lose their teeth and the new ones grow in.
Some puppies have very little hair as pups but then really start growing coat at about 6 months old.
Some lines mature earlier than others and some later than others.
It pretty much is the same thing with the coat.
Looking at a puppy with little or no coat will not tell you if that puppy will have coat later on.
Blowing coat in cockers is another issue we have as a breed.
It is noted that Ascobs tend to blow or show signs of more coat loss than any other variety.
Therefore having the judges that judge Ascobs look at the dog itself besides the fact of the coat factor.
How did you learn to groom:
I went to Wal-Mart many years ago and got a pair of $30.00 clippers.
The reason I did that was because I was tired of taking my Cocker Gizmo to the groomers and paying that price
because it felt like every month I was there.
Most cocker clips start out as cheap as $30.00 and work up to almost $100.00 in some cities.
I figured there had to be a cheaper way of doing that.
That was when I bought clippers. I did find out that those clippers where not the best, the blades never stayed sharp
the clippers were very loud and the dogs were kind of scared of them.
That is when I bought a semi professional pair of clippers.
You can find these at PetEdge, Revival Animal Health, and EzGroom plus many other places.
I use both a corded clipper and a cordless clipper. I paid roughly $200-$300.00 for my clippers.
I have been self taught how to groom watching dogs at dog shows being groomed, looking at photos etc.
I must admit some of puppies look pretty cute clipped, some not so pretty.
The top knot and the bells of the feet have always given me grief.
Some puppies they stay still longer, allowing me to do a better job others want to move the whole time.
I am not a professional by no means and I don’t claim to be.
I am still learning how to do a correct cocker cut and still in the process of learning to trim show dogs.
To me the hardest thing yet has to be shaving them down and not making them look like a chop job.
I am learning what products to use and what not to use as well.
There is a link to a DVD by Jodi Murphy that I suggest any Cocker owner to get.
Do you keep them all in coat?
As we are talking about my Cockers and their coats I would like to add that my cockers are not all kept in coats!
That’s right, mine are all shaved down into what is called a 10 blade some times in a 4FC which is a little longer.
Reality check it is cockers have a lot of hair and in the summer months they are in a shave down.
Why do we do this because for starters it is just so dang hot outside, try going outside and having a fur coat on.
Doing this allows them to grow enough coat back for the winter months to come.
I must admit that this is not very pretty looking on a cocker. Pretty naked.
I have to admit that I am very bad at cutting them down and they look like they have had a chop job!
Some hair missing from here and some is missing from there, extra hair here and there.
I find it much easier keeping a show dog in a proper cut than shaving them down.
I am not going for the pretty look as I don’t think they look appealing to the eye in this type of short coat.
I am going for the clean, care free, less coat/hot, easy maintained.
Many breeders put their dogs in this cut.
It seems to allow the undercoat to breathe for a bit.
Because it is clipped down so short it allows to deep clean the coat and skin.
Plus, with the ears are able to breathe better as well because of the short clip.
Although, I keep everyone cut down throughout the summer months I do keep a
couple in coats as I maybe growing them out for whatever reason, maybe to take a photo
or for a upcoming dog show etc.
But again, for the most part they are shaved down.
What colors of puppies will you have?
Depending on which Female is bred to which Male I will have a rough idea of what is to be expected from that breeding.
I usually am on target with what colors I am expecting from two bred cockers.
Puppies and their coloring and freckles.
Puppies that are Parti’s including mismarked solids do tend to get freckles.
Sometimes it is a lot of freckles and sometimes it is only a few.
Sometimes it is so many that it seems their colors blend.
Usually, you will find most of the freckles and blending on the face, head, ears and legs.
One day they will not be present and another day they will be there.
They can get freckles and blending way up into adulthood.
Some of our puppies might be born blk/white or tri and turn roan or red/white might turn roan.
We are not a crystal ball and can’t tell you were the freckles will be, when the freckles will come if any, and who will get freckles.
Puppies that are solid in color as well can change in color.
For instance, a silver that is born might turn into a lighter buff.
A light buff might turn into a darker buff; a dark buff might turn into a red.
A black might turn into a sable or a blk/tan.
Some puppies born solids do tend to gain white and became mismarks.
Usually you will see white on the face, neck and feet.
On any color or coat type we can’t tell you what color your puppies eyes will stay or turn.
Staining- some of our puppies do have some yellow staining on them if they are white.
Due to the puppies walking through their own feces and other littermate’s feces. We try to prevent this by cleaning on a constant basis and washing.
But puppy hair sucks up anything that it touches it. NOTE puppies usually shed their coats and the yellow will fade eventually with constant washing.
That is not that big of a problem.
Also puppies coats will tend to have oily ears and hair sometimes, that is due to dog food.
Puppies tend to get puppy food everywhere, they lay in their bowls, play with bowls and play with other puppies
that may have oily hair.
Again, we wash the puppies on a constant basis to prevent this.
We can only tell you what color your puppy is at the time you decided to put your money down or purchase a puppy
it does not mean that the puppy will stay that color.
Please note, if you are buying a puppy from us their maybe changes in your puppy from day to day, week to week and even month to month.
Puppies change and we have no control over that.
Where are you located?
We are located near Phoenix, Arizona which is easy to find.
Are your dogs healthy?
I try my best to produce healthy happy puppies as possible. I provide my dogs with Earthborn which is Grain Free brand products it is one of the best dog foods that I know is out there. We also use supplements for our dogs. As vet care goes I provide medical attention on all dogs and puppies no matter what the cost and if I have to go without something I will. Since most of my dogs are shipped there is a Health Certificate done on the puppies and that provides both parties that the puppy is healthy at the time of sale or transfer of the puppy. My dogs are like my children they are first in line. Seeing health problems at the first sign is very important to me. Learning what health problems are allows me to better my dogs in the long run. If a health problem is found at a later date it is great to learn about that health issue, sometimes if the problems are not brought to the attention of the breeder how is one to fix the issue.
I have placed dogs including Champions in pet homes that had medical issues that I didn’t want to continue with, therefore breeding better quality.
Placing an adult cocker that you poured thousands in and possibly shown and bonded with because you know it is better for the breed is very hard.
It is very tear jerking when I have to let one go that I have raised. It is not easy.
We are not no crystal ball and we can’t fore see any health issues in the future we can tell you what health issues we have had in the past with two dogs and go from there.
We do try our hardest to make sure our puppies are healthy and do tons of pedigree research as our Cocker breed is full of health issues, to find out what lines have what and try not to double up on those issues cause we all know
cockers in general have a long laundry list of possible health problems.
The puppies that we have here do occasionally have ear problems such as ear mites, yeast and/or ear infections only because at this young of age the puppies tend to get puppy food everywhere on their body.
Even with constant washing the puppies and wiping out their ears they still tend to get dirty.
We go a step further and cut the hair near their ear so the puppies can have proper ear ventilation.
Most ear cleaner say you can use on puppies but NOT under 16 weeks of age.
Because the puppies are under 16 weeks of age we do not use ear cleaners as recommended.
We do ask you to continue to wipe out the ears, keep the hair near the ear kept cut back.
Start using ear cleaning products as soon as they are 16 weeks of age.
Breeding dogs is not like a factory and everyone is not perfect and without defects. Humans have flaws and we have no guarantees that any of us will be healthy for our entire life and die of a ripe old age.
We do not have a crystal ball that we will know the outcome.
We have children that are born that look fine one day and are deadly ill the next. Humans rarely do genetic testing to make sure they are a match before they produce and can live at time to be very young or over 100 yrs old.
As a breeder I do some genetic testing and I pick and choose who I believe should be bred to whom.
Just like humans there are no guarantees that the dog you choose will die of old age. No crystal ball. All living creatures are subject to the laws of nature!
No matter what type of breed of dog they are at risk for some type of defects.
Please research Cocker Spaniels before you get this breed – the breed itself has plenty of health issues.
I got my papers but I can’t find them?
People do loose AKC papers just like anything else you put it down and then will return later. The dog might of got a hold of it, the children might of drawn on it or you might of thrown it away. I can replace your papers for you, by requesting a duplicate copy of your paper through AKC. It will take about 7 -10 days after they receive my request to do anything with the request. It does take some time. If you need new AKC papers the fee for that is $55.00 through AKC which needs to be sent to me and then I will send it off to AKC with my written request and proper paperwork. I also on top of that charge a $25.00 handling fee to process your request. Total cost is $80.00 replacement fee.
We will only go back 1 year in our paper process, any puppy that is not registered after 1 year
will not get any type of AKC papers and no refund will be issued as it is your responsibility to get your papers on your dog.
No matter if I tell you that you will have your papers in this time frame or that.
Sometimes people do need a reminder so call and ask NICELY to
see if I have the papers for you. I too do forget some things. .
Although, I am all about Contracts as I have contracts for everything as I have learned my lessons the hard ways.
People may have good intentions at the beginning that is not always how it works out in the end.
Many people who want to breed contact breeders and tell them oh, I will show the puppy/dog.
Many never will but show like they said they would.
They want to obtain full registration so they can breed and not following through with the showing.
I believe it had to be a breeder to come up with Co Ownership.
In order to Co own a dog you add both names on to the AKC papers of the said puppy/dog.
Then when it comes time to breed lets say a female it is required that both signatures are required to register the litter through AKC.
Here is where it gets tricky because what if the other parti didn’t like the sire or was pissed at you for something stupid.
They don’t by law have to sign off on the litter of puppies.
If the puppy/dog is a male only one signature is required by AKC to register a litter puppies.
Then to sell the puppy/dog both signatures have to come off the registration in order to add on the new owner unless you are selling with no papers.
Co Ownership to me is like getting married to someone you don’t even know because once you put two names on that paper to co own, both parties have to agree and just because you agree at the time doesn’t mean that you agree later down the road and you have thing in what you thought back then were in black and white now seems like there is yet always a gray area that didn’t get mentioned.
If it is between two breeders that a co ownership is happening you find that name bashing begins.
So, I do not believe Co Ownership is the way to go with anyone just to have a person follow through with a possible show contract.
Sometimes breeders will do Co Ownership if a puppy back is requested.
They will stay on the papers until the puppy back is given and followed meeting both color and sex.
I again don’t agree with this because I rather just draw up a contract and go to court at a later date.
I have done many puppy back contracts and never did a Co Ownership and have gotten what was requested by me.
AKC does not recommend Co Ownership and they will not get in the middle of a Co Ownership as it is a civil matter.
I have learned my lessons with people trying to play a fast one on me when doing Co Ownership and I do not recommended it to anyone.
I do not require Co Ownership on any of my dogs.
If you just wanting a puppy with full registration please just be honest and pay the extra amount I ask for and have
a less headache than dealing with a co ownership!
Why are your puppies more expensive?
My puppies are more expensive than those that you might find in the local newspaper because the cost is more. I am trying to produce pet quality puppies and some show puppies. The cost of having a litter of puppies is much greater when you put a lot of work into a litter, as well as insuring proper care of the puppy with the best products out there. The pedigree’s behind our puppies are very nice as well.
I have spent thousands of dollars just for my breeding males and females.
I am not just putting two dogs together and getting my kicks from them having a litter of puppies.
We have a lot of overhead costs:
Also we have to have a vet check each year as well – meaning the vet comes and looks at all our dogs and charges us a fee of $250.00
Our dogs have the same luxuries as people do
If it is hot they have the A/C on, if it is cold they have the heat on and heating pads have to run for the new born puppies to keep them warm.
This adds extra cost per month on the electric bill and those that pay their electric know it is not cheap.
We also have ads so people can purchase our puppies and find us easily.
Websites are not cheap there are domain cost, hosting cost, graphic/website design cost.
Do you want me to call you back?
Add in the cost of a cell phone per year and internet – $4600.00 per year.
Office Equipment- Computer, camera, fax, phone, paper, ink for printer for contracts, printer/scanner.
Then the cost to own a bigger vehicle to either ship the puppies so we can have crate with plenty of room and to have crate to fit in for showing as it will not fit in my 2014 Camaro SS.
We also have our electric and water bill so the dogs have ample of fresh water, cleaning of bedding, pet beds, toys, A/C and Heat when needed.
Grooming tools such as clippers, replacement clipper blades, cool care, driers, strippers, tables, etc.
Crates we do own a couple xpens and crates either to have our show puppies in them or
crates for transporting to and from shows or to the vet.
Cleaning supplies such as cleaners, brooms, mops, dust pans, paper towels, newspapers, chemicals.
The parents themselves have a value associated to them.
Some dogs I have paid from $1000- $3500.00 just depends on which dog plus just like the new pet owner shipping on top of that.
Showing fees are not cheap at all usually it is $15.00 a day for boarding and then you have
entry fees starting at $25.00 per day,motel, traveling cost, grooming fees, and showing fees $70+
depending on which type of show.
We are not even talking about medical expenses such as but not limited to
Patellas, CERF’s, OFA’s, DNA, PRA, Micro chipping
Genetic Testing such as color testing.
Ear cleaner, yearly dental, emergency visits, checkups, and health issues
Vaccinations including NeoPar and rabies on a yearly basis.
Monthly meds like Frontline Plus and Heart Worm Meds.
So, that is just some of the reasons why the cost is so high, the cost to have the puppies and try to break even is high.
At the end of the year we are so in the hole.
On top of that I give many cockers away to friends, family, breeders and those with special needs.
When we look for a retirement home for our adults we place them for next to nothing but find that perfect home.
So, please don’t call me and ask to make a deal or trade a puppy, we already know the cost is HIGH.
Our Right to Refuse
I had bought a dog or puppy but you decided not to sell the puppy to me after placing a deposit or full payment.
We have the right to refuse sale to any puppies/dogs or provide services to any person at any time for any reason even if you have placed a deposit on a puppy/dog or payment in full.
Some of the reasons for this are to include but not limited to.
Puppy didn’t clear health certificate, do not think puppy is ready to go, health issues, attachment issues, decided we want to keep.
Including if we start talking to you more and we are not feeling comfortable with the sale, feel like there are red flags, or have an uneasy feeling.
Including finding information that was not disclosed prior to the sale or during the sale process, like you say you have two dogs and you have 10, etc..
For any reason we decided to not sell you a puppy or dog your deposit or payment in full will be returned to you.
If you put down a non refundable deposit or payment in full your money will be returned to you once the puppy has been resold. This may takes weeks or months, but as soon as it is done it will be returned.
Why can’t I come and see the puppies and parents instead of meeting you?
WE DO NOT ALLOW PEOPLE TO COME OVER TO HOUSE PERIOD!!!
We have reasons as of to why.
- In order to cover our house in case of fire, storm, etc and our vehicles including the puppies/dogs traveling to the airport or taking a puppy to the vet. We had to have commercial insurance as regular home owners insurance did not have a rider to add to the policy they do not even offer that. Not only does it cover the vehicles, it covers the dogs, the equipment used for the dogs, grooming equipment, pretty much everything for them. Because of this new insurance we had to jump many hurtles just to get it and one of the clause is not having people on the property as it is HUGE liability for possible dog bites, accident such as a fall or what not the more people you bring to the property the more chance something will happen. After seeing how insurance companies operate during finding insurance more than one -two claims a year can cause them to cancel you. Especially with a new policy.
I had to show them the 2nd reason which is listed below to show them I clearly state no visitors and the reasons being. So with that said this is one of the reasons we do not allow people on our property,
It took many months to get this insurance and do not wish to lose it because a possible puppy sale.
- Virus are another main reason for not allowing visits from the public because virus are extremely contagious, lives a long, long time, and puts other animals at great risk, do not expect a breeding facility to let you wander through their barns or dog’s living quarters, as exposure from the public is dangerous to the health of their animals. Even the inspectors have to spray their tires, shoes and hands, including wearing special plastic pull over booties before entering. Bleaching of tire marks after they leave as well. This is serious to us! Puppies at a breeder’s home or kennel should be viewed from a distance and not handled. A person could easily handle dogs, puppies or be exposed to a virus at another location without knowing it, and then bring this deadly virus to a breeder’s facility. Our dogs are not inexpensive dogs that you can get in your local papers. We have paid over $3,500 per dog in some cases and that is not cheap by no means. Imagine loosing 3 or 4 high priced dogs from a virus over a person wanting a puppy. For instance, you go to “Mr. Smith’s” house has puppies in the paper, boy they are cute and you pet them or even pull up in their driveway and you leave. No big deal. Did not see any sick puppies but week later they find out they have a virus of something. In the mean time you go to someone else’s house and you see their puppies the virus spreads without knowing. Viruses are not fun. Please don’t ask to come here because I do not want to put my puppies or dogs at risk. That is why I try to show as many photos as I can of the parents, the puppies and where our dogs live. I am very well known for taking photos in the cocker world and not just for the puppies I am selling but puppies I am keeping or dogs that I have. I am constant photo taking status. The puppies most of the time do not have a full series of puppy shots and they would have a greater chance catching a virus or a disease. Plus, we would have to put them in quarantined from the rest of the puppies for at least 10 days. The puppy would still be socialized but we would have to extra steps using chemicals to treat our hands and our body parts after touching or holding of the puppy. Those who wish to comment- you take your dogs to the dog shows, that is true.
Usually it is one maybe two dogs and when they come home they are placed away from other dogs for 10 days.
When we interact with them our hands have been bleached and other clothing is worn when being with them.
Even we come home from dog shows our shoes are taken off and put directly in the wash machine with bleach added to the water.
3. Personally I feel violated, I feel that I am putting my kids and my animals in danger allowing the public to come to my home.
How is that? I have children and I do not know if those who are saying they are purchasing a puppy/dog is not someone who will harm me or my children. I do not do back ground checks on those inquiring about my pups, I do not know if there is a criminal history of the perspective purchaser. I do not know if they will try to do harm to me or my children if we disagree on something or if I choose at that time not to sell them a puppy. Also in the state we live in it is legal to carry and have a fire arm on a person with no permit without warning. I also worry that if I show the public my house they will then know how to get inside my property, what to do once there and possibly steel one of my dogs while I am away. I do not know if they will harm any of my dogs as well. If the puppy buyer would happen to come to my house I would be having to watch multiple things such as my kids, my dogs, and also the people and if there were multiple people it would be harder. It has been said many times that people will steel from you when you are not looking. Steeling my property would possibly be another issue. It could be something small to something big, from something inexpensive to expensive. Could I lay my cordless clippers out, what about my camera, my kids I-pods, cell phones, laptops. The endless amount of valuables. Imagine having to worry and walk around your house putting everything of value up. Making sure everything was hidden away so they could not steel it. How much time that would take? Who knows if you are in one area and they need to go to the bathroom what they can steel when you are not looking. What about prescription medicine since Nathan and myself have medical issues. Also, I do not do home visits, I do not ask to come to your house, to invade your property, to look at your living conditions, to see how you live. I do not intrude into your personal space and would not wish that on anyone. So at the same time I wish that my space not be violated as well. Many people respect and understand this request and other still ask and complain about this.
4. Currently our house is closed to visitors due to the recent outbreak of the Canine Influenza Virus, which is currently sweeping across the country. There are many articles stating it is here right in our county. It can be brought in by shoes, clothes, hands, tires on vehicle. Our dogs mean the world to us and because of that you are not allowed here to pick out your puppy. We supply photos and videos of the puppies, photos of the parents and pedigrees. Puppies without a full series of vaccinations are more susceptible to parvo and we are not putting them at risk as well. I have decided to do this because we have had no incidence of this virus here. We vaccinate our dogs with Neopar which is the best Parvo medicine out there! Please if picking out a puppy in person means so much over the health of your possible puppy by all means finds somewhere else to get a puppy from. We love our puppies!
My insurance, the welfare of my dogs, and privacy matters to me.
On occasions however depending on the circumstance and the person that is possibly wanting a puppy I do make exceptions of allowing people to come here but with precautions. I might have you stay only for a short period of time long enough to pick out your puppy.
Ideally 20-30 minutes. I will have you to wash/wipe your hands with a chemical to reduce the risk of parvo.
I will not allow you in all the rooms of my house.
The bedrooms, the back yard will be off limits. I will not allow you to handle all the puppies only 1 or 2 puppies that you might be interested in. Since Mother dogs can be protective of their babies I will probably put her in another room so she is not stressed and possibly cause harm to you. Again this is all because I love my dogs, I love my family and I don’t want any harm to come to any of them.
Just to show you how real it can become.
This snapshot was from a post on a Facebook page that ended up being attacked from a prospective puppy buyer.
In May 2017 I found this circulating on Facebook and I thought I’d share it with you.
This is why people should not be brought to your house.
If you say, “I wouldn’t do that”. How is a breeder suppose to know if you are good or bad?
This happened in a small town with a population of 43,000 people.
I got a puppy and took it to the vet and found something wrong with it after you gave me a Health Certificate?
If for some reason after you get your puppy home and you take it to the vet you find something wrong with it.
First, I would ask you to take your puppy/dog to the local vet to make sure the puppy/dog gets treatment.
I will go back on the Contract and agreements on my website as they are posted about everywhere.
Stating the puppy is sold “As Is”.
Because I did everything in my power to make sure that puppy was healthy before leaving by taking the puppy to the vet to get checked and supplying a Health Certificate.
Products we use
We use Ez Groom Products on our puppies and dogs.
Including but not limited to- Puppermint Shampoo
I use Crystal White and Maximum Impact Shampoo and other products but those are the ones I use on a constant basis.
There are several products and fragrance that will work.
Oatmeal shampoo is highly recommended as well.
Also we use Ear Magic by Ez Groom as well, it is a wonderful ear cleaner, the best I have bought.I use a rep named Krista 1-800-777-5899 ask to talk to her so she knows kind of what I have been using and can help you the best way she knows how.
Dawn Dish Soap with Bleach
Cortisoothe-1% Hydrocortisone – dry hair, scratches a lot and I use this in the winter a lot.
Sebolux Shampoo- antiseptic shampoo for dogs.
KetoChlor- I use this on my moms, it is an antiseptic great to wash stomach off.
Miracle Coat Leave In Conditioner- Spray on – Petco
Bio-Groom Coat Polish- take 4 cups water to 1/2 bottle to make another mixture.
Spray on right after you get done taking a bath after towel dried.
I use Proclaim Professional with Aloe Spray on Glosser, spray on once hair is dry
this is to ad shine, do not spray very much at all otherwise will look oily.
To make dogs White: Crystal White by Ez Groom
Go to Sallys Beauty Supply get BW2
Best way to blow dry in less time than a towel or hand drier is a using a force drier, cuts time almost in 1/2 I used the Double K Challengair 2000 A.D.
It is known to be great on show coats as it penetrates undercoats but leaves coat full and lustrous.
DO NOT leave in one spot for a period of time.
Grooming Video that has come in handy is by Jodi Murphy the dvd you are looking to purchase is
The American Cocker Spaniel – The Show Trim approx price is 35.00 and is usually to you within a week.
One of the best DVDs I have seen!
Clippers: I use two clippers and one of the two is a brand new type for me.
I used the Andis Super 2 Speed AGC it is a corded clipper but is medium heaviness as far as weight.
I used this brand and model since I started having cockers.
After many years of use of these clippers I finally had to replace mine not only did I buy another exact clipper but I also bought a 2nd pair which is Whal brand called Arco SE it is a cordless clipper and light weight.
What I have found about this one it is much easier and lighter on my wrists.
It is adjustable to 5 blade lengths which is great for cockers.
Also there is 2 battery packs for this clipper as you easily can go through one battery pay in 45 minutes.
I always have both charged before I groom.
I would recommend either of these clippers to anyone!
How to keep parti’s white
I have constantly been asked that question as many people see my cockers as white.
My answer for this is WASHING! Yep, good old fashion given them a bath.
We wash them on a three day rotation. We do use cleaners like Ez Groom.
On some of the parti’s we do use Dawn dish soap with bleach, cuts the grease and grim really good.
No, it has not hurt the dogs that I have seen. But a good conditioner to follow is KEY! We use Cure Care, see below for the link.
One some our show dogs we have used powered bleach but this is VERY rare and this is usually for our show dogs only and on back legs where they might of peed.
It is called BW2 8 oz made by Clairol Professional price is approx 15.00 mix this with Salon Care 40 Volume Creme Developer 32 oz price is approx 8.00 you need to mix about 1 cup of powder in a container that you will throw away with the developer adding a little bit of developer at a time until it is about little thicker than ketchup. I add in conditioner and some soap into this mixture. You may need another batch of this depending on length of coat and thickness. This will bleach anything in site including but not limited clothing, your own hair, bath towels, etc. BE CAREFUL !
I have been told to leave it on for up to 15 minutes but I know this burns so I leave on no longer than 5 minutes tops.
Then I wash the dog completely and then follow up with a good conditioner and leave that on for at least five minutes. I use Cure Care which is the conditioner and I purchase the gallon size for about 8.00 this product is actually good for your own hair. This is non greasy, eliminates static, great for bleached hair. Really good product.
If you have a parti colored dog I recommend banding the areas of colored hair with mini rubber bands that you can get from Sallys for 1.00 to keep the hair from getting bleached that you need to stay that color.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ON PUPPIES AT ALL!
USE THIS RECOMMENDATION AT YOUR OWN RISK AS WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR INDIVIDUAL RESULTS!
Something happened, now what?
If you put a non refundable deposit down or a payment in full and something happens to the puppy prior to shipping or meeting the money will not refunded.
There is no refund on the purchase price! This is a replacement guarantee only. The breeder reserves the right to a possible waiting times of 1 year of more to make the replacement, as puppies are not always available. The replacement puppy will be of the same quality, sex and color originally purchased unless agreed otherwise. The replacement puppy will be selected by the breeder from the next available litter.
What if I can’t take care of my puppy/dog at a later date?
I do know that problems do arise in everyday life. Someone might die, might get divorced, loose a job whatever the case might be, run into a problem and no longer be able to keep the dog/puppy. I will not buy your pet back from you but I will take back the pet no matter how old the dog is. When I take a pet back I like to have the papers, records and any information that you have about your pet to better understand the pet and get acquainted with him/her again. I would never want one of my puppies that I produced go to a shelter or be abandoned because of a problem in them keeping their pet.
What if I have questions?
People who buy puppies or dogs from me will most likely get to know me before I sell you one on my babies. 100% of the time I talk to you over the phone and through e-mail’s before you buy a puppy/dog from me. I do talk to people on a constant basis when they buy puppies/dogs. I do like to know a little about you and how your living situation is before I feel comfortable in just handing over one of my babies. Just because you bought a puppy/dog from me does not mean that you are through with me yet. I do find it that I do make friends when I sell puppies/dogs. After receiving a puppy if you have any questions I am here to help you. You can pretty much ask me anything and if I don’t know the answer to your question I will try to find someone that will.
Can I make a deal?
Breeding Cockers is very costly when you add it all up. Between medical bills and services, supplies, food and papers it is very rarely you come out ahead. I do not breed to try to make a living off of my dogs but I do like some kind of compensation for the expenses I have made while breeding and adding to the welfare of my dogs. I do believe the price is fair and you can take your chances on the local newspapers if you would like, but know that I have been breeding for healthy puppy.
Are your dogs good with kids?
Yes, I think cockers are great around children. Our cockers are socialized around our children from birth. I do believe that the more they are with them the better both the puppy and child will act.
Our teenager handles the puppies from birth till the time they leave.
When they are old enough to play with them, he is with them constantly. Having them chase him around the house and petting them. I do believe when you first get a puppy and you bring the puppy into your home there should be some time just for the puppy away from the child to get adjusted and relax. Puppies in particular need a lot of rest just like a growing child. Limit puppy-children play sessions to 15-30 minute periods 2-3 times a day. Esp. since there are new noises, new sounds, new smells and new people and maybe even new pets. Temperament is a major focus in my breeding program.
I do not breed adult dogs with temperament issues. Since I am with the puppies from birth until they are of age to leave, I constantly evaluate each puppy’s personality mentally and try to place that puppy with the most fit home possible.
Males and Females
SPEAKING VERY GENERALLY…
Male dogs tend to be “lovable slobs” and “good ol’ boys.”
Male dogs tend to be more outgoing, more vigorously affectionate, more “in your face.”
Male dogs tend to be more stable and reliable in mood, less prone to emotional swings.
Male dogs tend to be clumsy and silly and prone to acting like oversized kids.
Male dogs mean well and are easy to love.
Female dogs tend to be more subtle than males.
They’re affectionate on their own terms.
They’ll request or demand petting, then reassert their independence by walking away when they’ve had enough.
Female dogs tend to be quicker to learn and are not as easily distracted during training sessions.
Female dogs are less likely to be openly defiant or to engage in blunt power struggles or dominance challenges
When you get an adult dog from me.
You open the cage and now you are expecting this loving dog to jump in your arms like nothing has happened.
Adult dogs have been use to a routine and schedule as well as his/her living arrangements and the people they have been around.
You have to realize that dog went from a loving home, to a crate to an airplane to a new home, new people and doesn’t know what is going on.
The dog at this point will be scared. Sometimes so frightened that he/she will growl and even bite to try to fend for themselves.
They do not know that you are good people and you will not hurt them.
Please understand in most cases they will turn around.
You need to give them a lot of time to adjust. We are talking weeks or even months.
This does not mean they have been abused or unsocialized this means they are scared!
They need to learn were to go the bathroom, your names, your sounds, your smells, all the rooms in the house, etc.
Especially, that you are good people and you are not going to hurt them.
Just because they are acting this way does not mean they are mean by no means they are just scared and do not know what to do.
Give them time and positive reinforcement.
Here is a link below that I found interesting and helpful when getting an adult dog.
Payment Arrangements how does that work?
I do know that any type of purchase can be strenuous to the pocket book so I try to make it a little easier. By paying a 1/2 down non refundable deposit of half down to hold the puppy half of the puppy price you are able to have me hold your puppy of your choosing. This has seemed to work better for a lot of people who can’t pay that amount all up front. This also allows you to have time on many cases to come up with the rest of the money.
Some people get paid weekly, bi weekly and monthly. This I believe makes it a little easier.
Once the non refundable deposit is placed down to hold the puppy the rest of the purchase price of the puppy is to be paid. I try to have the purchase price to be paid between 7-8 weeks. But in some cases I do understand that might not get paid for a week later or have other issues and I will on some cases wait a week.
Note: by placing a non refundable deposit down or a payment in full you also agree to all terms about deposits, and also agree to all terms of the puppy contract agreement located on the policies page.
I sent you an email….
Spam, most heard of it in one way shape or form. Well, some e-mail’s go into my spam folder provided by our server. I do not read e-mail’s that go into that folder because 90% of them usually are either junk or fraudulent practices. If I have not contacted you back in a timely manner check your spam folder and please contact me by phone, as your email might have gone into that folder.
Limited or Full Registration:
Limited registration is determined by the breeder. No off spring of this dog will be able to be registered! Limited registration will not change regardless of change of ownership. AKC has finally put stops to people changing litter applications by adding a code in the limited box. If it is shaded in, cut out or darkened in any way you will not be able to undo the box and find out what the code is in therefore not be able to change the dog which should be Limited to Full registration.
We actually cut out the limited box numbers as well as the pin number so you are unable to register the dog online with full registration nor able to put in full registration instead of Limited registration.
Dogs that do have Limited registrations do have restriction in showing as well as breeding rights. Please see www.akc.org
For more information on Limited registration.
Since most of our Cockers go on Limited Registration, we actually cut out the code since there is no need for it.
Full registration is also determined by the breeder. It allows off spring of this dog to be registered. With Full registration you are eligible to be entered in a breed competition in a licensed or member dog show. Please see AKC.org for information about Full registrations.
Most breeders do mark their puppies with Limited registrations because it helps breeders protect their breeding programs. If breeders do not want puppies used for breeding purposes, they can request the Limited registration option for those puppies.
So, you want to have full registration but you claim you are not a breeder.
AKC registration papers come with each puppy in less agreed upon.
Limited Registration papers are offered on all our puppies, no if’s and or butts!
Full registration is only with written approval from breeder with our right to refuse and meet all requirements.
AKC full registration papers are available only to qualified show homes/responsible breeders with proof available on request.
If you are asking for Full AKC for Showing:
Please note we do not guarantee the puppy will breed or is showable. Please see our contract with further details.
If you are asking for Full AKC papers for show I would like to know what dogs you have shown in the past.
Did they finish in the ring? Who handled the dogs for you if you used a handler for showing. Do you have a Website? What is your show name or kennel name?
If you are asking for Full AKC registration papers for breeding:
I would like to know do you have a kennel name, do you have a website? If you are asking for FULL registration for breeding purposes.
I require, pictures and pedigrees to whom you would be breeding the puppy that you are buying from me to.
How long you have been breeding.
How many litters you have produced? Why did you choose a cocker and any other information about your breeding program?
Note I am not a dog police, just wanting to make sure you are educated and less dogs end up in shelters.
1. Proof that you have breeding Cocker Spaniels for a minimum of 5 years through AKC.
2. Vet reference from a licensed vet who has seen your breeding stock and puppies.
3. Names, phone # and address of five past puppy owners who have bought a puppy from you.
4. Two breeders who have been associated with you and knows your conduct for recommendation.
Yes, I do ask more money for full registration instead of limited registration so I am not contacted
as frequently from breeders that are just starting out or want another female to put in their kennel
as I rather them go to pet homes instead of breeder homes!
I want to breed my female with one of your males?
We usually do not breed outside, but if you have something that I find of interest I might.
A brucellosis test is needed, to explain it is like getting a std test for humans but for dogs.
That needs to be done no earlier than 3 days prior to the female shipped, meeting or AI’s.
This test is performed by a licensed vet and should cost around 15-25 dollars depending on where you live in the US. I also ask for copies of the females AKC papers and all information about the female. For further information about what I need please email me for details and pricing.
If you are interested in this service please contact me and ask for a Stud Dog Contract.
We reserve the right to sell or refuse to sell puppies/dog, products and provide services to any person for any reason at any time, even if you have put a deposit down, with no questions asked.
Naming your puppy
All puppies’ names will begin with Aj’s and then the name that you provide. All AKC papers will have Aj’s on them when they are provided for you. The buyer agrees that he/she will not alter Aj’s on the papers. The new owner is allowed to pick the rest of the name if they have reserved the puppy prior to us registering them. If you purchased a Merle from me, you will need to have the word Merle in the name as well. Because it is hard to tell the difference at times when they are older, this way it prevents any confusion.
This is a recipe that has been generated by many
and I would like to share it with you.
It has been changed I have added some things and changed things.
Here is my version.
10 pounds of hamburger
1 large box of Total cereal
1 large container of Oatmeal
1 jar of wheat germ- found at Wal-Mart in food isles
(good source of Vitamin E and Folic Acid)
1 1/4 cup of veg oil
I put two jars of molasses – org. calls for way less
12 raw eggs- org calls for 10 but why put 2 eggs back in fridge?
12 envelopes of unflavored gelatin- org calls for 10 but they come in a 4 pk.
pinch of salt
My added ingredients:
1 cup Flax Seed- 2600 mg of Omega 3 Oils & good source of fiber
1 cup Peanut Butter- good source of protein
1 can of drained peas
6 carrots shredded
Approx 20 kelp tabs crushed no more than 2 tsp.
1 can of pineapple chunks, usually need to cut it even smaller
Berries- Strawberries, blue berries, raspberries
(found in many natural foods like Bill Jack- add as many as you would like
usually 2 cups)
Cottage Cheese or Plain Yogurt (good for pregnant females)
Puppy milk replacer
Above is added ingredients.
I do not add all the ingredients but at least a couple.
Just to have some extra’s depending on what I might pick up at the store.
Mix all ingredients together much like a meatloaf.
It originally called for you to place meatball size portions on a
cookie sheet place in freezer until set up and then place in freezer bags.
I do not do that, I just place in freezer bags and take out of freezer
when I want to use them.
Place in fridge until thawed and spoon out to the dogs.
The dogs do not care if they are balls or on a spoon!
To increase weight on a dog
Coats and skin look and feel better and they stop itching
Their eyes seem brighter
Can be used as a whole meal
Great for dog shows
Picky Eaters- never had a dog turn them down
Depending on what you add and what you don’t add.
If you just add the top ingredients it runs about $16.00
when I add extras it can be more like $20-25
I’ll tell you what I use and do, you can use your own judgment whether you want to follow
in my footsteps.
This article is presented only as documentation of how I make treats for our Cockers
at our house
Cakebread Cockers, what does it stand for?
Back story: From 1997 to 2012 I was married to Mark Fowler
which was pretty much my whole adult life.
In 2012 I went through a nasty divorce.
I use to be Aj Kennels and used that name for the whole time.
In 2013 I remarried and I took his last name of Cakebread.
So that is how Cakebread Cockers came to be.
My name is Aimee Cakebread therefore Cakebread Cockers.
I changed the name because it feels like a new start. Many people can relate.
However, I still register my dogs at Aj’s ___________and if you see a pedigree with
Aj’s____________ they mostly came from me!
Aj’s is actually stood for Aimee and my middle name starts with J and my nick name of Aj.
I am not Doing Business As (DBA) Cakebread Cockers
However I plan on becoming a LLC or INC sometime in 2017
I am strictly an individual with a passion and love for Cocker Spaniels and a Hobby/Show breeder
(not a company, business, or commercial pet enterprise)
and I own and compete with purebred AKC registered Cocker Spaniels as a hobby only.
Especially when we only have a few litters a year.
I breed Cockers for the show ring and sometimes for pets as both are equally important.
Our Cockers are not always here, but out with our handlers traveling throughout the USA and in confirmation competitions, living with friends, or visiting family.
I only sell the litter mates to help pay for all the cost of confirmation competitions, professional handlers, equipment, Cocker health including adults and puppies,
dog food, cleaning supplies, grooming supplies, registration fees, and so much more.
On most years I lose money, so I am only doing this as a hobby as a love of the breed.
If you’d meet me in person you’d see how much love I have for animals.
Not only for Cockers but animals in general.