We have tails docked and dew claws removed by 3 to 5 days of age.
They receive 2 shots of NeoPar to prevent Parvo because we find many people after they receive their puppy don’t follow through with
vaccinations. They also receive one vaccination at 6 weeks of age of Vanguard 5/CV at 6 weeks of age.
You will need to get a full series of vaccinations for your puppy through your local vet at your cost..
We included a Health Certificate so both parties know they are healthy at the time of sale.
We deworm all my puppies using Drontal Plus at 6 weeks of age.
All of our dogs are AKC registered, our puppies will be registered AKC and given papers if agreed upon.
We have been AKC inspected and in full compliance multiple times.
Puppy Contract Agreement
If you place a non refundable deposit down or a payment in full you also agree to all terms about deposits, and also agree to all terms of the Puppy Contract.
Our contract is quite specific, for both our protection, protection of the buyer and protection of the puppy/dog. This is in place so everything is specified in black and white as to the rights and responsibilities concerning any purchase of a pet puppy/dog from us.
Our health guarantee section is so long and so extensive because it is also designed to protect us from unscrupulous pet buyers and or veterinarians who may try to “trump-up” unnecessary medical cost concerning one of our puppies/dogs.
We were shocked to find that there are actually people who do this– especially people with an “animal rights” agenda who want to destroy purebred dog breeding in any way possible. Our contract can be printed off the website or downloaded in PDF, which we can also send via email to prospective buyers.
We require that the buyer sign the contract and send it back to us prior to the puppy leaving our property. If for some reason it is not signed does not mean you are not agreeing to the contract as putting a deposit on a puppy is the same as agreeing to the contract.
If the puppy is under 8 weeks of age this needs to be signed prior to shipping.
If you are meeting to pick up your dog or puppy you will be signing this agreement at pick up.
If you have no way to send the contract back to us via email, post office.
You can actually take a photo of it and text it to me.
Puppies can go to their new home no earlier than 8 weeks of age. No if’s and or butts.
Products we use
We use Ez Groom Products on our puppies and dogs.
Including but not limited to- Puppermint Shampoo
I also use Crystal White and Maximum Impact Shampoo and other products but those are the ones I use on a constant basis.
There are several products and fragrance that will work. Oatmeal shampoo is highly recommended as well.
Also we use Ear Magic by Ez Groom as well, it is a wonderful ear cleaner, the best I have bought.
I use a rep named Krista 1-800-777-5899 ask to talk to her so she knows kind of what I have been using and can help you the best way she knows how.
Best way to blow dry in less time than a towel or hand drier is a using a force drier, cuts time almost in 1/2.
I used the Double K Challengair 2000 A.D. It is known to be great on show coats as it penetrates undercoats but leaves coat full and lustrous. DO NOT leave in one spot for a period of time.
Grooming Video that has came in handy is by Jodi Murphy click here DVD the dvd you are looking to purchase is at the bottom called The American Cocker Spaniel – The Shw Trim approx price is 35.00 and is usually to you within a week.
One of the best DVDs I have seen!
How to keep parti’s white.
I have constantly been asked that question as many people see my cockers as white. My answer for this is WASHING! Yep, good old fashion given them a bath. We wash them on a three day rotation. We do use cleaners like Ez Groom. On some of the parti’s we do use Dawn dish soap with bleach, cuts the grease and grim really good. No, it has not hurt the dogs that I have seen. But a good conditioner to follow is KEY!
One some our show dogs we have used powered bleach but this is VERY rare and this is usually for our show dogs only and on back legs where they might of peed. It is called BW2 8 oz made by Clairol Professional price is approx 15.00 mix this with Salon Care 40 Volume Creme Developer 32 oz price is approx $8.00, you need to mix about 1 cup of powder in a container that you will throw away with the developer adding a little bit of developer at a time until it is about little thicker than ketchup. I add in conditioner and some soap into this mixture. You may need another batch of this depending on length of coat and thickness. This will bleach anything in site including but not limited clothing, your own hair, bath towels, ect. BE CAREFUL ! I have been told to leave it on for up to 15 minutes but I know this burns so I leave on no longer than 5 minutes tops. Then I wash the dog completely and then follow up with a good conditioner and leave that on for at least five minutes. I use Cure Care which is the conditioner and I purchase the gallon size for about $8.00 this product is actually good for your own hair. This is non greasy, eliminates static, great for bleached hair.
Really good product.
If you have a parti colored dog I recommend banding the areas of colored hair with mini rubber bands that you can get from Sallys for 1.00 to keep the hair from getting bleached that you need to stay that color.
I DO NOT RECOMMEND ON PUPPIES AT ALL!
USE THIS RECOMMENDATION AT YOUR OWN RISK AS WE ARE NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR YOUR INDIVIDUAL RESULTS!
Puppies and their coloring
Puppies who are Parti’s including mismarked solids do tend to get freckles.
Sometimes it is a lot of freckles and sometimes it is only a few. Sometimes it is so many that it seems there colors blend.
Usually you will find most of the freckles and blending on the face, head, ears, and legs. One day they will not be present and another day they will be there. They can get freckles and blending way up into adulthood. Some of our puppies might be born blk, white or tri and turn roan or a red/white might turn roan. We are not a crystal ball and cannot tell you were the freckles will be, when the freckles will come if any, and who will get freckles.
Puppies who are solid in color as well can change in color. For instance, a silver that is born might turn into a light buff.
A light buff might turn into a darker buff, a dark buff might turn into a red. A black might turn into a sable or a black and tan.
Some puppies born solids do tend to gain white and become mismarks. Usually you will see white on face and feet. On any color or coat type we cannot tell you what color your puppies eyes will stay or turn. Staining- some of our puppies do have some yellow staining on them if they are white. Due to the puppies walking through their own feces and other littermate’s feces. We have red clay where we live so a ting of red may also happen.
We try to prevent this by cleaning on a constant basis and washing. But puppy hair sucks up anything that touches it..
Note puppies usually shed their coats and the yellow will fade eventually with constant washing. This is not that big of a problem. We can only tell you what is there at the time you decided to put your money down or purchase a puppy. Please note, if you are buying a puppy from us there may be changes in your puppy from day to day, week to week and even month to month. Puppies change and we have no control over that.
Puppies are also given NuVet Plus Daily Canine Supplement NuVet With my dogs on NuVet I have noticed less visits to the Vet and highly recommend purchasing NuVet for a new puppy. We can’t stress enough how much a supplement can help. We give our children supplements such as Flintstones and so forth and also as older adults why not our pets. Health care for animals is very expensive and should not be compromised in any way.
We supply AKC registration papers.
The puppies are sold as pet/companion dogs. The puppies will be on AKC Limited Registration. AKC Full Registration is available only to qualified show homes/responsible breeders, so they have that choice at a later date. Full AKC Registration is offered upon approval. Please go to the Policies page and click on FAQ’s – scroll down to read about Limited and Full Registration. We use to register puppies at 6-8 weeks of age but because we have been on a showing adventure in the last yr or two we have changed our way of thinking. We have been keeping puppies back and range in age from 6 months to a yr to find out if we want to keep them for showing or for our breeding program. With that said we decided to move back the AKC registration to 6 months of age in order for us to find out which puppies we are keeping out of the litter. You will have to wait for your papers but they will come. We have no need for the papers as they are not going to help us in any way. We will get the papers out to you as soon as we register the litter. Also some times we discount a puppy so low we don’t give the AKC papers to that person as they agreed to not have them so that is cheaper to not get the puppy registered and not needed.
Please do not call about puppy papers until your puppy is at least 6 months of age. I will not have registered them until at least 6 months of age. If we tell you we already have the papers and have registered the litter, we DO NOT ship the papers with the puppy/dog, do not expect the papers to be with them. In most cases, we scan in the papers for you and send them via email the following week, then later we send out the AKC papers. Usually, I try to send the hard copy out in the mail the following week. We try to allow ourselves time to recover from shipping, as it is a lot of time involved in driving back and forth to airport, when we are done shipping we are very tired. Papers will never be shipped due to the chance of them being lost!
Feeding our puppies
We feed a good quality puppy food that is grain free.
Warranty and Guarantee
We do not warranty or guarantee – Especially since we have no control over their new environment, food intake, exposure, veterinarian care and socialization once the puppy leaves the Breeder’s home and Breeder’s possession. When shipping we do Health Certificates that are mandatory for shipping and Health Certificates upon request for meeting to pick up a puppy. This provides the Breeder and Buyer a piece of mind that the puppy is Healthy at the time of Sale.
We do try our best to produce healthy puppies as possible. Since we are talking about puppies and cockers who are known to have ear problems in general we occasionally have ear problems such as ear mites and ear infections only because at this young age the puppies tend to get puppy food everywhere on their bodies, they get into stuff as much as they can, grass, dirt and what else. Even with constant washing of the puppy and wiping out their ears they still tend to get dirty. We even go a step further and cut the hair near their ear so the puppies can have proper ear ventilation. Most ear cleaners say you can use the products on puppies but NOT under 16 weeks of age. Because the puppies are under 16 weeks of age we do not use the ear cleaners as recommended. If you are getting a puppy from us that is under 16 weeks of age we ask that you continue to wipe out the ears, keep the hair near the ears kept cut back. Start using ear cleaning products as soon as they turn 16 weeks of age. Once the puppies are old enough to have ear cleaners we use Vet Solutions- Ear cleaning Solution or Ez Groom – Ear Magic.
Our babies are raised indoors. We take all measures to keep them healthy and happy. Every pregnancy is supported by us to make sure everything goes right. This means sleepless nights next to the whelping box to make sure everything goes as planned. We are hands on with the puppies from day one. If one is sick or weak at birth I am there trying my hardest to nurse the puppy back to health or where it is strong enough to be with the others. Hands on at a young age is key. When the puppies are old enough to play the boys play with them in the kitchen, playing around the house and chasing after ones feet. You will hear the pitter patter of puppy paws and children feet running through the house. When weather permitting they go outside and play. They then chase the children all over the yard, lay on their back and dig in the dirt. It is a funny site sometimes watching the boys and the puppies interact with each other. We have many visitors that come by and see us and they have a hard time passing up getting puppy kisses or holding a puppy, usually it is neighbor kids that might stop by, but we take extra measures to making sure the babies do not get a disease by using chemicals to wash hands prior to touching and spraying shoes prior to coming over. We are very aware of the canine disease that lurk and make sure we take proper measures to not have problems.
The puppies don’t only interact with humans but other pet members.
WE DO NOT ALLOW PEOPLE TO COME OVER TO OUR HOUSE PERIOD!!!
We are not trying to hide anything but because canine virus are extremely contagious and not visible , lives a long, long time and puts other animals at great risk, do not except a breeding facility to let you wander through their barns or dog’s living quarters, as exposure from the public is dangerous to the health of their animals. Puppies at the breeder’s home should be viewed from a distance and not handled. A person could easily handle dogs, puppies or be exposed to a virus at another location without knowing, it, and then bring this deadly virus to a breeder’s facility. Our dogs are not inexpensive dogs that you can get in your local papers. We have paid over $3,500 per dog in some case and that is not cheap by no means. Imagine loosing 3 or 4 high priced dogs from a virus over a person wanting a puppy. Our dogs are our family members too, imagine losing your family member because of this? For instance, you go to “Mr. Smith’s” house who has puppies in the paper, boy they are cute and you pet them or even pull up in their driveway and you leave. No big deal. Did not see any sick puppies but week later they find out they have a virus of something. In the mean time you go to someone else’s house and you see their puppies the virus spreads without knowing. Viruses are not fun. Please don’t ask to come here because I do not want to put my puppies or dogs at risk. That is why I try to show as many photos as I can of the parents, the puppies and where our dogs live. The puppies most of the time do not have a full series of puppies shots and they would have a greater chance of catching a virus or a disease. Plus, we would have to put them in quarantined from the rest of the puppies for at least ten days. The puppy would still be socialized but we would have to extra steps using chemicals to treat our hands and our body parts after touching or holding of the puppy. Please visit more about this issue on the FAQ’s page.
Just to show you how real it can become.
This snapshot was from a post on a Facebook page who ended up being attacked from a prospective puppy buyer.
Can you take more photos?
I get asked this question all the time and the more that I get this question asked the more I get upset. I do not think the public understands what is involved in taking photos and why take photos when we do. I believe that if you are going to take photos the puppies should be well groomed and clean. I will not just pick up a puppy and start clicking the camera. That is NOT going to happen. The photos I take of my puppies/dogs represents me and I do not want less than what I would expect myself out there. I try to update puppy photos every 2 to 3 weeks as it is. Usually after the puppies have their eyes open is when I like to start. I also do not like taking photos when the puppies are older as stated below it take a lot of time to do them. At this point I usually already have side shots of the body and head shots, puppies really do not change that much.When I take photos of puppies I take photos usually of the WHOLE litter not just one puppy!
The first step in my process of taking photos is grooming.
It is not fun to be all hairy and only groom one puppy. With this said all of the litter gets groomed. Have you ever tried holding a puppy that will not sit still. It is a nightmare at times. You cannot rush this process because they remember the clippers this step is time consuming. You do not want the puppy to be scared of clippers because cockers have a life of being clipped. It is NOT just a five minute type of thing. Younger puppies under 8 weeks it might take 20 minutes a puppy. Older one it takes almost 45 minutes to an hour. It is not just clipper work, but all scissor work as well. Cutting toe nails and cleaning ears. When I groom I do it all, not just half ass. After I am done grooming it is time to shower and start a load of laundry. Because you do not want to groom a puppy and not give them a bath as it will give them a burn. You cannot groom one day and the next day give them a bath. Have you went and got your hair cut and when you are done you are itchy. Same thing in dogs! Giving them a bath is next.
I have different soaps for different puppies including puppy shampoo. Some times it seems like they given me a bath instead of the other way around. Washing per puppy is 30 minutes. That does not included dry time. Again older puppies take longer! When you have the whole litter of puppies you need to have extra hands with means family help! Next is poop duty. As soon as you set the puppy down I don’t know what it is but the puppies poop. Walking around with paper towels and trying to place it under their butts so they don’t walk in it or get them nasty. Now by that this time I am so tired. We have to get photos. It is all about the lighting. Is it sun shine, windy, or raining. You can just take a puppy outside and expect a good picture. That is not going to happen. Many people can take pictures of things but to capture the puppy and in the correct light is HARD!
Why do you think I have some great photos. Because it takes alot of time and you really need to have an eye for it. I usually take about 20 + photos per puppy with maybe 2 or 3 turning out. I have to down load the photos to the computer. Waiting for this to happen seems like forever.
Then I need to crop them to size. I then go into my website program and put all of the puppy photos up for the whole litter. Doing this is an all day task. During all this time I could of been socializing the puppies, having fun with the kids or spending time with my husband.
You should expect certain behavior patterns from your puppy and know how to cope with them. Your puppy will not know you and you will not know the puppy until both of you spend time together. Some times when puppies are new to their surrounding they can become aggressive because of stress and they are trying to show you there is something wrong.
Some puppy’s adjust to the change right away and feel at home while other puppy’s do not adjust right away they seem scared and take a while.
Either way, the best way to get to know your puppy is spending time with them. Reassure your puppy that other people like your friends are friendly and encourage the puppy to greet them appropriately. The more places you take your puppy after the puppy has been fully vaccinated the more people the puppy meets and it will become easier to make new introductions. You will need to train your puppy and help the puppy fit into your household. You must establish yourself as the leader of your puppy’s pack in order to command your puppy’s respect and obedience. Establishing this is vital to training.
Be firm, but gentle. Be consistent. Follow through with each command. Never hit or strike your puppy. Always reward your puppy for good behavior.
Why is my puppy biting?
As they turn 7 weeks of age they become naughty! All puppies like to chew and bite. When with their littermates and mom. They were taught how hard to chew and how hard not to chew. You need to step up and become the alpha/leader of your small pack and teach your puppy what is allowed and what is not allowed. If you puppy bites too hard you need to make a noise/word that means NO! Do NOT use physical punishment to your puppy/dog. Treats on good behavior for not biting and good behavior is always a helpful tool.
When you pick up your puppy you really need to take time to learn about caring for your new puppy a how to make your home safe.
You need to Puppy-Proof your home, I can’t say this enough, because puppies can get into anything from liquids to solids and with everything going into their mouths especially since they are babies and they teethe, harm can be done if they get into something they are not suppose to have.
Do not leave your puppy unsupervised inside or outside. Puppies will investigate, wander and get into mischief.
Block off rooms with baby gates, make sure windows are locked, doors are closed and don’t forget balconies- insuring they are not allowed to get out there unsupervised.
Keep all cleaning supplies picked up including antifreeze!! Don’t forget house plants or hanging baskets and be sure to pick up plant leaves that might have fell.
Keep the toilet lids down as some toilets have chemicals in them or the puppies could even possibly drown.
Remove electric cords. Don’t forget the outside, there are many plants that tend to be dangerous including fertilizers. Yard sprays for bugs are highly dangerous to pets.
Make it a habit when you leave the house to do a walk through to shut all doors and windows, do a puppy check!
If you are placing puppy in a crate, try to use a wire crate vs the plastic as the plastic crate is very confining. When you leave make sure you take the tags/collar off the puppy because you never know when the collar/tag could get caught and cause the puppy to choke. Make sure your crate has adequate ventilation, but openings to be small enough they can’t get out. Make sure that the crate is placed in a draft free area as you do not want the puppy to get sick. I also recommend placing a VERY thick towel under the crate- this is because most people do not realize how cold the floors are.
NEVER PUT A PUPPY IN A CRATE FOR PUNISHMENT!!!!!!
Make sure you are allowing to have proper chew toys in crate so the puppy has something to do and make sure you before you place you puppy in the crate before you leave to have the chance to go to the bathroom.
Our Right to Refuse
I had bought a dog or puppy but you decided not to sell the puppy to me after placing a deposit or full payment. We have the right to refuse sale to any puppies/dogs or provide services to any person at any time for any reason even if you have placed a deposit on a puppy/dog or payment in full. Some of the reasons for this are to include but not limited to.
Puppy didn’t clear health certificate, do not think puppy is ready to go, health issues, attachment issues, decided we want to keep. Including finding information that was not disclosed prior to the sale or during the sale process, like you say you have two dogs and you have 10, etc. For any reason we decided to not sell you a puppy or dog your deposit or payment in full will be returned to you. If you bought a puppy, once the litter of puppies has been sold we will refund your money. If you purchased an adult, the money will be returned to you within 12 weeks from our written notice to you that we will be returning your money.
When your puppy goes home at about 8 weeks your puppy will be to small for a collar and leash. If you really think you need one, try the cat section at the store.
I do recommend once your puppy has gotten the full series of shots to take the puppy to Pet Co or Pet Smart and get one fitted. The biggest problems I have seen with collars is the wrong fit. Measure the neck frequently to be sure the dog does not outgrow the collar. There needs to be AT LEAST TWO INCHES of room between the collar and the puppy neck enough so you are not choking the puppy and enough room so the collar does NOT grow into the skin. I am a very passionate about this issue as it does make me become upset when I see a dog/puppy with to tight of a collar on. I have watched enough horror stories on Animal Planet to know what the effects of not having a proper collar on. Having to tight of a collar on is NOT RIGHT!
Once the puppy has a new collar and has all the proper tags, turn the collar over and put the name of dog, and your address and phone number on inside of the collar. Some people do not like to write on the outside on top of the pretty design, but the underneath part should be fine. Make sure frequently look to see that information has stayed on there. I still would write it on with a perm marker. There might be a time where your dog might get out and the tags might be off for whatever reason, at the least the person that found the dog could look at the collar. Just thoughts!
Plan Ahead so you will be prepared if an emergency occurs. Keep phone numbers and address of your veterinarian and a secondary veterinarian incase your vet is unable to answer the call for help. A back up vet is very key. Have on hand the number to the poison treatment hotline in your area. If you are unsure of that number ask your vet’s office. Have an assortment of sterile dressings, gauze, adhesive tape and cotton swabs. Rectal thermometer, tweezers, hydrogen peroxide, rubbing alcohol, Kao-Pectate, Lubricating Jelly, hydrocortisone ointment, scissors, eye wash (ask vet for what they recommend, tell him it is for emergency kit), Pedioyte, Oral syringes, Large Towel, Exam Gloves, Emergency Ice Pack, Taking a CPR class is important as well. Also, a proper size muzzle for your pet, because in some cases animals do bite when they are in pain. This will prevent harm done to animal and harm done to owner or vet. If your puppy has been poisoned, please do not induce vomiting unless you have talked to your vet first. Some cases this could set back your puppy.
I hope you will never have to use either a emergency and first aid kits but being prepared is the first step of help! I also recommend getting a book that tells you about bandaging, moving an injured animal, allergic reactions, bleeding, breathing problems, broken bones, burns, choking, drowning, electric shock, eye injury, frost bite, heatstroke, poisoning, shock and skunk encounter. There are many books at the local book store that might cover some of these subjects. It is also very important to keeping your dog’s rabies vaccinations up to date.
Insurance on pets is nothing different than insurance for a child. You know one day that you might need it. Having a piece of mind is important and having your animal covered for health insurance instead of high out of pocket cost when there is an emergency is much better so you know you can get the treatment needed and not being denied because of cost. Our dogs are very important and we hope you feel the same way!!
There are many insurance companies out there that insure your pet. AKC has recommend PetPartners Inc which is available to residence in the USA. www.akcphp.com or 1-866-725-2747 Another insurance provider that I know is VPI Pet Insurance at www.petinsurance.com/Iamsoffer . Purina Care has a pet insurance you can go to their website at www.purinacare.com or call 1-877-878-7462
There is a difference between First Aid and Emergency Kit. This kit needs to be kept as light as possible, only pack what you need. Have the Emergency kit handy in your house and make one for vehicles if you take your dogs with you. Planning ahead is very key!! A bag or container to hold everything, 1 leash, 1 collar/harness, 2 collapsible bowls, 1 shammy/towel, 2 to 3 days worth of food per dog, 2 bottle of water, reflective tape (place this on crates/collar or even on your dogs coat), 2 emergency light sticks with lanyards (can be worn around the neck by either you or your dog), thermal blanket (this is not no regular blanket), water purification tablets, 2 heat packs and 2 emergency cold packs, poop bags, 1 toy and 2 or more days of supply of medication if needed, one mini fan and batteries, if you are packing canned food make sure the lids are easily opened and they do not need a can opener otherwise you will need a can opener in the Emergency Kit. Also included important documents like vaccinations including rabies, microchip number, a photo of your dog, date of birth, weight and height of the dog.
You can get some of these things on this list by either purchasing them individually or ordering them off the internet, there are many places that sell theses. Kits-Supplies-Gear 4 Survival is one of the places that I have seen online, the link is provided by clicking on the name. Please use your own judgment if you are ordering from them. I take no responsibility.
Note: there are some things that are my list to get, that are not included in their emergency kit.
My dogs are a 24/7 all year around passion. It is not just something I do for fun, on my spare time or on the weekends. I have missed a lot of holidays, social events, kid events, school functions, family gatherings and more. My children have also given up a lot because of my passion for our dogs. A lot of puppy buyers think it might be really easy to have a litter of puppies. It is not, there is a lot of work that is involved once the puppies are here. It is not in my blood to leave a sick mother, or weak puppy at home and I go and have fun or go to an event where I am needed. I would be worried the whole time I was gone and my attention would not be on what I was doing as my head would be with my dogs. Wondering what is happening and when and how fast I can get back home to them. I miss my dogs when I am not with them.
I spend endless hours with my dogs and puppies. Especially when a litter is born, I don’t leave the house, let alone be more than four steps away from them. I constantly check on them to make sure they are warm and bellies are full. Once they grow a bit and are at least three weeks old then the fun begins. The cleaning and cleaning again. Puppies go the bathroom more than some imagine, at about three weeks of age, mom is not wanting to clean their butts, and with that smell coming out of that end, wow, who would want to.
We buy so much cleaning supplies like newspaper, paper towels, chemicals it is insane. The cleaning never stops!
Once you are done cleaning, you feed, once you feed, you clean. That is pretty much how it goes. Don’t forget that smell. You really have to love what you do at this point because even the strong people don’t like the smell that comes from them. And you can’t forget about giving the puppies baths and drying them off and giving haircuts. Cleaning is very time consuming. Then we take photos of the puppies. People constantly want an updated photo even if a week has gone by. I don’t think anyone realizes how much work it is to take one simple nice photo. You wash, dry, cut, and photo. Puppies do not sit still at all, the camera is never as fast as the puppy. You are lucky out of about 200 photos to get 5 good ones. But no matter what we are doing with the puppies it really is the love of the animal and the breed. Once they are clean and fed and the smell is gone. It is about the unconditional love. I love my puppies. You will find me having a puppy in bed all curled up and under the covers next to me and me kissing on it. Or you will find me sitting in the living room in the chair with a puppy on my chest and it giving me puppy kisses. I am constantly sneaking puppies out of their area and playing with them when the rest of them are sleeping. I try to give them one on one attention. I really do love and care for my puppies and spend endless hours showing each and every puppy that I LOVE THEM!
*Puppies for sale are born here not shipped in.
*Breeder does not sell puppies to wholesalers, brokers or dealers.
* I do not like selling to breeders!
*Dog set up is clean and well kept as we use A33 Dry, Odoban, Simple Green, Kennel Sol and Nolvasan Solution.
*Puppies for sale have been introduced to socialization
*My primary concern is finding a good home for the puppy.
* I do ask questions about lifestyle, family.
*We occasionally have puppies but not always so check the puppy page.
These are the screenings we do most of the times.
Eye exams (CERF’S), Hip check (OFA) some times, Thyroid screening, Patella’s
Pawsitive Id testing is starting to be done.
All our adult males that have been Dna’d through AKC,
All adults are micro chipped. We do have a microchip reader on hand at all times.
Heartworm medicine on a monthly basis, worming medicine on a monthly basis as a preventative.
We also use Frontline to prevent fleas and ticks.
Ivermectin and Propylene Glycol mix to treat ear mites.
Ear Magic to clean adults ears.
We also do yearly checkups on parents.
Expecting females sometimes get ultra sounds and x-rays.
Neopar is given to adults.
Corrid is given to mom prior to weaning for 7 days to prevent coccidia in puppies
Ceftiofur is also given to moms for prevention of E coli as a preventive as puppies from getting it.
All dogs and puppies get medical attention no matter what the cost is.
We ask if you are interested in one of our puppies to visit all of our Policies page and read all material provided in the drop down menu.
We reserve the right to sell or refuse to sell our puppies, adult dogs, products and provide services to any person for any reason at any time, even if you put a deposit down or payment in full, with no questions asked.
I’ll tell you what I use and do, you can use your own judgment whether you want to follow in my footsteps. This information is only presented as a documentation of how I do things and how I treat my animals. If you want a second opinion for any of the topics listed above please contact your local vet for other suggestions.